Victoria's Tearooms and Teahouses

	Afternoon Tea at The Fairmont Empress1

You don’t need to be a tea-totaller to enjoy Victoria’s most popular brew. Tea has a grand tradition here that stems back to the city’s British roots. Over the years, it has morphed into a tradition that is uniquely Victorian, becoming integral to the city’s identity. Nowadays, tearooms are not just popular with the prim and proper, but with the trendy and popular. There are a number of tea houses in town that cater to a variety of interests, from touristy tearooms to afternoon teas for foodies, it’s all part of taking time to smell the tea and enjoying life in Victoria, British Columbia.

THE HIGHS AND LOWS OF TEA

Before going for tea in Victoria, one should know that it is much more than that. It could include cucumber sandwiches, scones, mini-cakes, strawberries and cream and any other broad assortment of sweet and savoury dainties. It is often called Afternoon Tea or High Tea, and while their definitions are not really important, it may be helpful to know the difference if only to impress friends.

As the story goes, 19th-century Britons only ate breakfast and supper until the ingenious but waning Duchess of Bedford noshed on a crumpet midday to discover her energy restored. She began sharing her discovery with friends, inviting them over for tea and dainties and a little bit of gossip, enjoyed from low tables, hence the term Low Tea. In contrast, High Tea—served from a regular high table—was traditionally the combination of tea and a hot dinner served around 5 or 6pm and enjoyed by the working class after a hard days’ labour. Today, High Tea usually includes sliced meats, pot pies and other warm dishes. However, most places advertising High Tea are often referring to Low or Afternoon Tea.

TEA TIME TODAY

Britain’s influence runs strong in Victoria since settling the area in the 1850s, with the afternoon tea tradition remaining from that time. It thrives today because of its varying appeal, from people seeking the tourist garden and tea encounter, to those wanting to experience the historical grand tradition, from locals looking for a good gossip to foodies looking for a good brew.

The Dining Room at Butchart Gardens2

Tourist-Tea
Afternoon Tea is undoubtedly supported heavily by the tourist trade. A trip to Butchart Gardens supplies visitors with the combined experience of gardens and tea. A lush and formal garden, the grounds here are the fruition of Jennie Butchart’s idea to revitalize the exhausted limestone quarry left by her husband, Robert Pim Butchart’s cement business. Nearly a million people visit the gardens each year to enjoy fresh air and floral surroundings, culminating in an afternoon tea in their dining room. It is a very civilized way to spend an afternoon in the grand tea tradition.

Not quite as well known, Abkhazi Garden is the creation and expression of a love affair between exiled Prince Nicholas Abkhazi and his wife Marjorie (Peggy) Pemberton-Carter. Having met once on their separate travels, they had lost touch during the Second World War when both were interned in prisoner of war camps. They were reunited over a decade later, settled in Victoria, and created an elaborate garden over the course of their 40-year marriage. In essence, it became “their child,” according to Peggy. Today, The Land Conservancy (TLC) operates the garden, which they saved from a townhouse development in 2000. The tearoom, situated in the Abkhazi’s former sitting room, overlooks the garden. The romance is palpable, and the tea service delectable, consisting of chocolate truffles, fresh fruit and lemon loaf.

A Grand Tradition
Enjoyed as part of aristocratic life, afternoon tea has a grand tradition that can be experienced in some of the finest historical buildings Victoria has to offer. Point Ellice allows visitors to step back in time to experience life as a Victorian elite. Built in 1867, this Italianate house was in the O’Reilly family for 125 years and is a recognised provincial historic site, housing the country’s largest collection of Victoriana in its original setting. Visitors can enjoy afternoon tea amidst the garden as the socialites did, complete with a game of croquet. The grounds undulate toward the Gorge Waterway, where guests can arrive by Harbour Ferry.

	The Tea Lobby at The Fairmont Empress3

Afternoon Tea at the Empress is the ultimate experience of the British tea ceremony. Located in the lobby at this historic hotel, the tea room’s elegant features include tall floor-to-ceiling columns painted pink and lavender, a grand piano, and a commanding fireplace with a painting of Her Majesty above.

A three-tiered tray presents little sandwiches filled with fillings like mango and curried chicken, while the pastry tier displays items such as Earl Grey shortbread and checkerboard sponge cake. They also offer a Prince and Princess Tea designed for the aristocratic child in your life, featuring a special menu, such as jellybean filled cupcakes and heart-shaped sandwiches. A dress code is in effect (smart casual) and reservations are required one to two weeks in advance in their high season. Attached to the Fairmont Empress is Crystal Garden, where the annual Victoria Tea Festival occurs.

Tea for Two: Time for Conversation
When the Duchess of Bedford invited her friends around for tea, it was just as much for the conversation as it was the food. There are several tea rooms in Victoria that developed out of this tradition for gathering friends together for tea and a good gossip. Nowhere is there better than Oak Bay Village, which is far enough away from the downtown madding crowd to experience the ‘real’ Victoria afternoon tea. Its Annual Oak Bay Tea Party is a must for enthusiasts.

So is the Blethering Place, which as the name suggests, is a good place for a natter. The atmosphere is frivolous and fun with servers dressed up in traditional costume. A jazz band creates a jovial atmosphere each Sunday evening, featuring New Orleans-style blues. Variety shows occur regularly and their Annual Car Collector Festival is particularly popular. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, there is a full menu. But of course the real reason to visit is for tea time. Order the full afternoon tea or individual a la carte items.

The Blethering Room, Oak Bay4

The White Heather Tea Room, also in Oak Bay, caters to local regulars and a few lucky tourists who stray from downtown. The White Heather can be described as cosy, nay, even quaint with handcrafted quilts decorating the walls. There’s a lunch menu featuring items like savoury cheese scones with a choice of filling. Those visiting for the tea experience can choose from a selection of platters that include scones, Devon cream, mini quiches and the like. As with any self-respecting tea house, they have a selection of fine black teas as well as special blends, green teas, whole fruit tisanes and herbal infusions.

The James Bay Tea Room, located in James Bay, is also conducive to conversation, and is located closer to downtown, just behind the Parliament Buildings.

For Foodies Too
A rather refined affair, tea rooms attract people who enjoy quality cuisine. Enter “the foodie”. Murchies has been a serious tea and coffee company since 1894. It is a destination tearoom downtown, with people making a point of visiting for their tea alone. Indeed, this is where the Empress buys their tea. But it would be a shame to miss out on their formal tea service, which includes a fine selection of cakes, tarts and finger sandwiches.

Serious foodies should not miss Adrienne’s Tea Garden. Located at Mattick’s Farm, its setting is conducive to an afternoon stroll around market stalls, taking time to smell the tomatoes. A collection of shops on the premises display regional art, handmade quilts and an array of crafts. It’s a fine affair all around. Adrienne’s, with its dark wood floors and glass-cased deli counter, has a hearty farmhouse menu of soups and sandwiches. And of course, there is High Tea featuring finger sandwiches, seasonal fruit and scones with Devonshire cream.

1. c/oThe Fairmont Empress: Afternoon Tea at The Fairmont Empress; Victoria, BC, Canada
2. c/o Butchart Gardens; Dining Room at Butchart Gardens; Victoria, BC, Canada
3. c/o The Fairmont Empress; The Tea Lobby at The Fairmont Empress; Victoria, BC, Canada
4. c/o Wendi Seskus-James; The Blethering Room, Oak Bay; Victoria, BC, Canada